Honda Civic Si - Hybrid How To - Sport Compact Car Magazine
The K24/K20 combo is really nothing new, and over the past few years, the . to help meet the demand in hopes of continuing to grow the business. Ryan compiled a list of parts including a K20A2 oil pump conversion. New OEM Factory K20a2 PRB Oil Pump Kit. Precision machined and ready to bolt onto k24a & k20z3 engine blocks; % Bolt on assembly. Includes. What is involved to swap a K20A2 oil pump into a K20A3 or K24A2? Obviously you're going to have to remove the oil pan and timing chain.
While this is only a daily driven streetcar, if you're anything like me, you want the best when it's within reach. Holding tolerances to a millionth of an inch, JE's advanced processes are essentially unrivaled.
K24 Internal Engine Whine - Pro builders please look
I contacted JE Pistons to request a set of Along with my order, the JE tech requested the camshaft specs that I'd be using for the build to verify clearance and just a few weeks later, the pistons were on my desk awaiting duty.
To match performance with the aftermarket pistons, a set of I-beam, forged steel connecting rods were ordered from K1 Technologies. Shot peened for improved fatigue life, utilizing bronze wrist pins and ARP hardware, each set of rods is weight matched to within 1 gram on each end.
Not long after, I had a lb package delivered to the office. Speaking of that package, an important factor when having something like a block shipped is how it's packaged.
KMOD prepped the block, then wrapped it in a protective seal, and strapped the block to a solid wood foundation. They then surrounded it with plenty of cushioning in case of the unthinkable, boxed that up, and finally, they sealed everything and strapped it to a large pallet.
Unless someone removed the heavy-duty straps and literally pushed the block over, it wasn't budging at all-KMOD did it right. Produced in high quality material and heat treated way beyond anything your engine will ever see, the headstuds provide some added security as they were designed to withstand turbo, nitrous, and full race engines, far more abuse than a streetcar will ever see.
Fitment is factory fresh and it comes with all of the hardware you'll need to marry the two halves properly. The ancillary parts - AutoFair Honda AFH When I first began researching what would be needed for the K24 block swap, I quickly realized that it wasn't quite as simple as just tossing in a block and a K24 timing chain.
There are a number of OEM parts needed to do the conversion properly. The first being they offer multiple K-series parts and packages on some of the popular Honda forums like Honda-Tech and 8thcivic. Their pricing is brutally competitive and they even help take care of the guesswork by eliminating what you don't need, and including exactly what you will need. The second reason had more to do with their growing reputation for excellent customer service and a vast knowledge of all things K-related.
So how did a team of three that spent time mingling on k20a. Well, it began with Parts Manager Rich St. Jean, who started off by offering RRC intake manifolds online. Brand new at the time, it brought about incredible interest from enthusiasts; so much so, that Rich hired Ryan Doolin to help meet the demand in hopes of continuing to grow the business. Remove the header it hangs lower than the rear section of the subframedisconnect the engine harness connections, including the ECU which is now under the hood near the left headlight, then go for the large bolts on the subframe.
Unless you have the ability to lower the entire subframe with the engine attached, drop the subframe at this point and then drop the engine. Even with a lift, this can be tough because of the large area of the subframe.
Removing the engine without removing the subframe isn't possible. Because the cowl and windshield hang over the engine compartment so far, it is impossible to get the engine out from the top. WiringThis is where the Civic throws us a curve ball. Unlike all the previous E-chassis, the ECU is under the hood. Likely this is a cost savings and assembly time move, but it makes the swap harder. Because Hondata doesn't have any reflashes available yet, we chose to step back to an ECU that's programmable.
That's the Hondata K-Pro. Now we're all set for any displacement, naturally aspirated or with forced induction. Which brings up the next issue: It would take a very long harness to connect the plugs, which are now under the hood, to the usual location near the glovebox. Since the K-Pro isn't weatherproof, there's no driving this car on anything but sunny days.How To Baffle An Oil Pan - Honda K-Swap 240SX
To make the connection to the body harness, Hasport spliced wires that are in the under hood portion of the chassis harness to wires from the modified engine harness. The important connections that had to be made with the cabin harness are ECU power, main and fuel pump relays, air-fuel sensor relay, radiator fan relay, coil power, and injectors.
Honda's service manuals have the entire harness layout deciphered and labled.
2007 Honda Civic Si Sedan Project Car - Bulking Up
Great, now you can run the engine, but you can't run the new double-decker dash. Honda has switched all the dash instrumentation to run on ECU CAN bus signals, which are basically an automotive digital protocol. The K-Pro isn't compatible, so you can deal with it or do what Hasport did and get an Xsport digital dash from Pi Technology. Pi is the standard for sensors and instrumentation used by most of the racing industry. Just feed it the signals for things like tach, speed, temp, etc.
Engine MountingThe K24 goes in as easily as the K20 came out. In fact, you can use all the stock mounts. The K20Z3 oil pan is an integral part of the '06 Si's engine mounting system. It bolts right onto the K24, so you can use the lower mount. Make sure you use the '06 Si oil pump too, the oil pan is deeper and the oil pump pickup extends farther to reach the bottom.
The oil pump has to be modified also, so the housing will clear the longer stroked crank of the K24 engine. Finally you'll need a CR-V right-side engine mount. It's a little shorter.
Next, put the engine in from the bottom, install the left and right side motor-mounts, then attach the subframe, along with the rear mount, and install the front mount. Fuel SystemNo real changes here. The K-series engines all utilize a returnless-style system. If you're thinking ahead and want to install a big-horsepower engine down the road, you may want to do a return-style system.
Since the K24A2 has conventional belt driven power steering, you will need the idler pulley from the Si on your K If your K24 came as a stripped long block, all the accessories from the K20 will bolt right on to the K When we had the engine out of the car, we mounted the thermostat housing from the K20Z3 on the TSX engine.
The larger engine doesn't require additional cooling capacity beyond the Si's stock hardware and all the hoses from the K20 connect at the same places on the K Same for the heater hoses which warm the interior of the car. The TSX has taller lower numerically gears to take advantage of the increased torque, but ripping through the gear ratios of the improved Si transmission is too good to resist.
Even if we wanted to use it, the K24 transmission mounts differently, making it impossible to use. Unbolt the K20Z3 transmission and add it to your K ExhaustThe good news is that the factory exhaust manifold from the K20 bolts right up to the K The bad news that because of increased emissions restrictions and the Si's ULEV2 rating, that manifold has a close-coupled catalytic converter that keeps a lid on flow.
A good 10 horsepower can be had on a K20A2 just by bolting up the JDM Integra header with its longer tube header, which puts the cat under the car instead of near the firewall. Since the aftermarket got their hands on the new Si early, we were able to get a prototype DC Sports race header. It's not street legal because the catalytic converter was left behind, but what about this swap is CARB legal?
IntakeIn the usual OEM style, the stock intake system uses a series of black plastic boxes and snaking tubes in the engine bay and fender well. The surprising part is that it actually sounds really good. With the stock muffler, the intake is actually pretty burly, especially when the cams switch over to the big lobes.
But it's definitely a restriction and the longer manifold of the K24A2 puts the throttle body where it doesn't exactly match the K20's. On top of that, Honda has switched to a mass-airflow sensor MAF to deal with the new, tighter emission regulations. Since we've dumped the stock ECU for a Hondata unit that doesn't require a MAF, the sensor becomes an unnecessary restriction on the intake. Although you could bolt the K20's intake manifold on the TSX engine, you should also know that the intake manifold from the TSX dyno tests better than the one on the K Hondata has done extensive testing, and until you do major modifications like iVTEC advance adjustment, a race header, larger cams and more, the TSX manifold will outperform the one from the Si.
Wrap-UpThis crazy swap might not make sense now, but later down the line when Si owners get hungrier for torque this will be the first stepping stone to endless other hybrid combinations. It's a lot of work because of the number of parts that need to be swapped to fit the Si's unique engine mounts and work with the Hondata K-Pro ECU.
Soon Hondata will have a reflash for the Si, then they'll probably have a fully-programmable ECU like the K-Pro, which will alleviate the need to swap half of the parts that we've changed. But for now, we're all stuck with bolt-ons and we already know from years of dyno testing, the K series really comes alive with more than just bolt-ons and it takes a K-Pro to get that benefit.
If you're not Hasport, then just having a new Si will be cool, but having one that has incredible potential Hasport is planning on turbocharging theirs to the tune of wheel hp with a sleeved block makes you nearly untouchable.
Make sure to disconnect the electric power steering.
Hybrid How To #17 - 2006 Honda Civic Si
The rear mount connects to a bracket on the oil pan and the subframe. It's a simple "dog-bone" style mount to limit engine movement and is great for preventing wheel hop on "sport-style" launches. The front and both sides are typical Honda affairs and disconnect easily. If you're lucky, you have a lift and you just push a button to lift the Si away from the K20Z3 once the subframe has been removed. This is the stock Si right-hand mount. It has a built in torque arm or "dog bone" to prevent the main mount, which is filled with hydraulic fluid, from tearing under heavy acceleration.
We opted to use the '06 Si tranny for its limited slip and lower gearing. The stock shifter cables wouldn't work if we hadn't-something we found out after the fact. It's already gone, but this is where the Honda ECU lived. This will prove tricky on our swap as the K-Pro is not weatherproof.
Although the stock mounts can be used for the K24 engine swap, the Hasport mount will be necessary for the wheel hp turbo motor that will later find its way into the '06 Si. Notice how it removes the "dog bone" upper joint for even greater movement control.
The left-hand mount holds the transmission and is made of two parts. An aluminum bracket bolts to the transmission with a post that sticks upward, and the actual mount hangs off the frame. Here is the Hasport left-hand mount and bracket.