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He goes out in his foot plywood boat for several days at a time, with only two boys as crew, and hand-lines for sea bream, red snapper and barracuda. Because the Indians have been marginalized politically by the Fijian majority, in recent decades tens of thousands have emigrated.
Saiman's own mother, he tells us, now lives in Canada. All this colorful and fragrant food whets our appetite for dinner. Near Nadi's Hindu temple, the largest in the southern hemisphere, we find a simple but very popular screened-in restaurant, Tata's, where unique local ingredients have been incorporated into traditional Indian cuisine. The highlight is succulent curried fresh-water mussels on rice.
We also try the bone-in lamb biryani. Traditions from a Distant Land A week later, having flown to the scenic northern port town of Savusavu, we meet a wiry young contortionist, Rajesh Kanna, who puts on shows in the larger cities. He demonstrates some of his seemingly impossible positions and hands us his card. Adjacent to the market is a tiny take-out place with only a few tables and chairs. The owner, Kamla Pati, cooks us a spicy chicken curry lunch, with dal, rice and rotis, for a laughably low price.
Her daughter Rita, 20, is engaged to be wed. It is an "arranged" marriage, but only in the sense that the families have to approve the match and are negotiating over important details. Then younger daughter, Briya, 16, shows up. Still in high school, she aspires to a career managing a department store. She proudly takes us to see the one-room temple where her family worships, the men on Friday nights and the women on Mondays. One of our drivers, Kasim, turns out to be an Indian Moslem with a Hindu wife.
Mosques are scattered across towns and rural areas, but such intermarriage is unusual.
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Although Indians and native Fijians seem to mix comfortably in public places and at work, there is seldom more intimate contact. We come to see how Fiji's Indians inhabit an unusual cultural world. After more than a century, memories of the Indian past are fading.
Hardly any of them have ever set foot in that distant country. And with English taught in school, few can read or write proper Hindi.
On the other hand, many still speak it with parents and grandparents, and some still identify with their great-grandparents' regions of origin. Although generations removed, the Indians of Fiji continue to hear echoes of life from their ancestral homeland. He has also published four popular non-fiction books on history and science, mainly with a maritime connection. The most recent book, Ebb and Flow: You need not download an app to use chat service, use any browser for free access to yesichat and meet new strangers, make new friends with just one click instantly.
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