Jul 8, Learn why the Volkswagen Jetta TDI is the ultimate commuter. a rotary style injection pump and is known to last well beyond , firewall and floorboard provisions are there to easily swap a manual truck meet The TDI CP3 HPFP has earned its mark in the common rail fuel system as one of the most robust and reliable pumps available to the TDI market. ALH Injector Pump Swap Details from dieselgeek VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs. misalignment at the junction where the shaft and the boss 'meet'.
You can use the IP lock timing belt tool for counterholding the sprocket. Put towels around the metal fuel lines 17mm and remove.
I suggest putting a drop of PB blaster around the fuel line unions because they will be stuck.
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It also helps prevent twisting the fuel lines. Do not reuse the metal fuel pressure lines if they get bent or twisted! The injector bodies will probably be caked into the head so you shouldn't have to counterhold them. If they have been loosened recently, I suggest counterholding the flat of the injector body with a 15mm wrench.
The injection pump side of the fuel line will also probably be stuck. First put a drop of PB Blaster around the union thread and let soak.
Counterhold the 14mm union on the injection pump when you loosen the 17mm fuel line. If you don't have a torque wrench that will fit on the nuts, use a permanent marker to make an index mark on the nuts before loosening them. Make each mark in the same direction like pointing up or down so that you have a better idea of how much to tighten the nuts during installation.
Remove the fuel filter-to-IP fuel hoses, use paper towels to collect spilled fuel. Remove the injection pump by removing the mounting bolts 4 total. These are the same bolts that you loosen to adjust timing with the mk3 style pump.
ALH injection pump swap and conversion into mk3 TDI engine
The IP can now be removed. If you just want to remove the pump, end procedure. The below steps are if you want to swap your mk3 pump for a mk4 ALH pump. Unlike the mk3 pump, the sprocket mount does not have a woodruff key to mark it's position on the IP shaft. Releasing the nut and removing the sprocket will change their relationship and you cannot index the sprocket to the shaft once it's removed!
Remove the IP bracket 3x 6mm allen bolts, not circled but they are visible in the above picture. Take the ALH sprocket and machine it so that the outer face the tapered side is almost flat with the gear teeth. This is done for timing belt cover clearance. Don't worry about the center nut clearance because there's a relief in the timing belt cover and it will fit.HOW TO REPAIR DIESEL PUMP VW(MK3) 1.9 TDI
It's best to remove less rather than more metal because a heavier sprocket will help dampen the jerky pull of the IP on the timing belt through a flywheel effect. Below are before and after pictures of the sprocket. The red bracket indicates about how much you should remove. Make sure it's as tight a fit as possible. Due to tolerances during machining, I suggest machining the IP bracket hole a little bit too small and then test fitting it from there. I'm not a professional mechanic; I just like tinkering with my car.
Do NOT do any of this if you aren't comfortable with modifying your engine, and be prepared to deal with the consequences if you do something wrong. I will not buy any part made by because they are probably low quality counterfeit parts. Many people have had bad experiences with this seller and his parts. I also had a bad experience so never again. Parts and supplies click links to compare prices or have an idea of new part price 10 mm injection Pump with four 4 new copper washers: VW kx the x in kx indicates rebuilt or 11 mm injection Pump with four 4 new copper washers: VW n 04 Metalnerd Part Nr.
If anything, this will save your back from aching. Make sure the car and jack stands are fully secure before getting under the car. This is mainly in case you drop something through the engine compartment; it will be easier to retrieve. Remove any alternative crankcase ventilation, CCV, system e. While it's not required it'll make removal of the hard lines slightly easier.
The picture below shows one of the clips removed and you can see my fuel line nut markings better in this picture. A shop towel helped catch leaking diesel fuel. I suggest putting a drop of PB blaster between the fuel line and fuel line union on the injection pump to help loosen them.
Counterhold the 14mm unions on the injection pump when you loosen the 17mm nut. Do not reuse the metal fuel pressure lines if they get bent or twisted! Some PB Blaster or other penetrating lubricant at the fuel injector end of the fuel line nut too won't hurt but it doesn't have a clear shot at the threads. A single small drop on top should help. While removing them, mark the fuel lines individually with their injector number and their position on the injection pump e.
Again, use shop towels to collect any leaking diesel fuel. Diesel fuel will melt things like coolant hoses so it's best not to let it sit.
injection pump removal without timing belt replacement: TDI ALH engine
Yes, my valve cover and intake manifold are now BLUE. You can clamp them near the fuel filter or near the fuel pump should let less fuel drip out.
Then remove the fuel supply and return lines from the injection pump and keep them to the side, making sure you have shop towels handy to catch or clean up spilled diesel fuel.
I suggest twisting the lines back and forth where they connect before pulling them off. This will help break the seal so the hoses aren't stressed as much when you pull them off.
The original author removed the bumper cover and the passenger side headlight. This is not required for just removing the injection pump. It's easy to remove a race pipe because it's not attached to the EGR pipes but if you have an EGR valve I would leave it in place unless you strip the valve cover bolts next to it.
One of the bolts is normal while two of the bolts have a threaded top for the vacuum line support bracket. Remove the vacuum pump and place it to the side. You may want to replace it with a new seal.
Here is another view of the 13mm support bracket bolt and the 10mm nuts sitting on top of them. An offset wrench is also shown. You want to remove it and don't want dirt falling into the engine.
az-links.info - How to Replace a MKIV ALH Diesel Injection Pump without Changing the Timing Belt
If you have VW toolyou don't have to remove the valve cover. Remove the seven valve cover bolts with a long 5mm Allen socket. You can also use a long ball end allen wrench to reach the harder to reach bolts.
If any bolts get stripped, use an EZ-out or wrench to grip the outer diameter of the bolts. The car has a Dieselgeek oil by-pass filter which required removal of the connection on the valve cover from the line on the top of the oil filter. Set the engine to top dead center TDC. There are 3 checks for TDC: These are detailed in the next few steps. The normal way of turning the engine is with the 19mm triple square bolt on the crankshaft. This is supposedly the least stressful on the timing belt tensioner.
If you have a manual the transmission must be in neutral when you turn the engine over or else the transmission will hold the engine. Since you chocked the wheels and applied the parking brake it won't roll away. The crankshaft bolt is a one use only stretch bolt so don't use an impact wrench on it. It's safe to use the bolt to turn the engine over by hand because the force is low compared to the bolt's torque value and this is how the service manual says to turn the engine over.
Because it's more accessible and as a matter of opinion, I feel that using a sprocket counterholding bar on the camshaft sprocket is safe and may be better for this procedure because you don't have as much access to the 19mm triple square crank bolt. If you feel otherwise, rotate the engine by the large crankshaft bolt.
Do NOT turn the cam sprocket counter-clockwise. Be certain to place plenty of shop towels underneath the injection pump because it will expel diesel fuel while the camshaft sprocket is turned. Both of the camshaft 1 lobes closest to passenger side on a North American left hand drive car should be pointing up in a "V" shape, brake booster vacuum pump slot at the other end of the camshaft should be horizontal marked with red lines in the pic below.