Aj16 swap meet

swap coils to dizzy on aj16 jag 6 cyl engine

Sitara technology to meet the processing needs of the following applications: single-board computing, network and communications processing. Charters Towers Motor Show & Swop Meet. ABD Dinner. All British .. rather its AJ16 variant), and the Jaguar V12 engine. It remained the only. The Jaguar AJ-8 is a compact DOHC V8 piston engine used in many Jaguar vehicles. It was the fourth new engine type in the history of the company. In it replaced both designs previously available on Jaguar cars: the straight-6 Jaguar AJ6 engine (or rather its AJ16 variant), and the Jaguar V12 engine. .. The engine meets EU5 emission regulations in Europe and Rest of World.

A permanent solution is to retro-fit the later mk3 version tensioner with a metal, not plastic body from the later 4. An orange mk1 or cream mk2 tensioner plastic body is bad news, a grey metal one mk3 is good. The cam phasing on the V8 means the timing gear works hard and timing chains can stretch at high mileages or on neglected cars.

Exhaust cam chains slipping one tooth — usually on a cold start - will give a rough running engine, more than one tooth means exhaust valves meet pistons. Loads have failed now - just look on ebay in the non runners or spares and repairs section.

Any car that hesitates or engages Drive with a jerk or thump as the engine speed rises has a potential gearbox failure looming, changes should be seamless and quiet and you should be able to play tunes with the throttle, Sport switch and J gate selector.

A very faint whine may be heard in intermediate gears. Any gearbox problems or concerns are potentially serious. Ideally the gearbox oil and filter should be changed at 50k then at 25k intervals; it's not a simple drain and refill on the ZF box as the final fill has to be done quickly with the engine running and within a narrow temperature range. Some transmission specialists offer a flush and change service done via the oil cooler pipes which also gets the oil otherwise retained in the torque converter out.

The same applies to the rear axle. Old oil has to be vacuum extracted out of the filler plug. There's a reinforcing plate where the engine sub frame is bolted to the body rail and some cars have corroded badly here. This corrosion may also be visible in the engine compartment on the top of the body rail around the heads of the bolts that retain the top of the V mounts.

It's an MOT fail too and a big welding job. Body and paintwork is otherwise pretty good however some darker coloured cars suffer from peeling lacquer. Bumper corners are susceptible to damage and bumper brackets can work loose. Stripe down body flanks if car has one is hand painted and not always completely straight. Wood trim clips on and is easy to change to different type. Drivers seat and steering wheels tend to suffer from wear. LWB version obviously has more room in back.

A sharp rattle heard and felt through the steering over bumps combined with a little free play in the steering wheel may be a worn crush joint on the lower steering column. A clattery rattle from the rear is likely to be failed shocks or shock bushes. Xs with weak rear A frame bushes will tend to self steer and wander about under hard acceleration.

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Feel round all the tyres for uneven wear patterns; any suspension wear or bush failure giving incorrect geometry will cause tyres to feather oddly and heavy wear in the inside edges is a symptom of excess negative camber from wishbone bush failure. Very slight even feathering is normal, especially on the fronts. All Jaguar XJs are very sensitive to wheel and tyre imbalances or damage, typically you'll feel a steering wobble between MPH and possibly vibration through the seat if there are any tyre problems or buckled wheels.

Incorrect tyre pressures, worn out or cheap budget tyres will severely affect handling and ride. Some Xs exhibit a faint exhaust vibration or harmonic around 50 and another one at 65MPH. You might possibly experience a hint of driveline vibration through the body too.

Any XJ with a reasonable mileage will benefit from proper suspension reset with a Hunter 4 wheel laser alignment system. Don't expect too much in the way of the legendary Jaguar ride quality either - it's pretty good on touring black shocks suspension and 16" wheels but sport suspension cars green shocks are stiffer and have a up rated front antiroll bar and one on the rear too which when combined with larger diameter wheels and lower profile tyres gives a hard crashy ride on poor roads.

For the non-US market, a post XJ12 is sure to be a good choice, though you might not like the fuel bills the mighty V12 will rack up. When buying a used XJ sedan, the first step is to do some basic research into which model is best for you.

Certain Jaguar models are performance oriented, while others emphasize comfort and luxury, some were put together poorly and others well. A good start is to look through some of numerous books available outlining the various model designs and differences. Once you've narrow your choice down to a specific model, you can begin patiently searching for a solid example of that model.

At this step, it is extremely important to find a well maintained car. Full documentation that quality work was done on the vehicle is essential to establish this. A poorly maintained Jaguar will present you with a host of expensive hidden problems.

They aren't a car you can drive like a Japanese import add fuel and gobut nothing rides like a Jag I also like to see that the work was done either by a dealer or a Jag specialist shop.

Only 1 in 20 or so cars meets this standard, but they do exist and you really want a car that was well maintained. By looking through all the records you can also get a feel for whether or not the car has recurring problems and if typical major items i.

Please do not be alarmed by what appears to be a large list. It is very doubtful that any single car will suffer from all of these, but many of these problems are seen again and again. Rust in the XJ first appears in the fender lips under the front turn signals, around the wheels, in the front jacking points, under the rear bumper and mufflers, in the lower seams of the doors and trunk lid.

Rear radius arm mounting points: If the car shows any signs of rust, it is extremely important to get these checked by a professional.

These very vulnerable parts is located below the rear seat and is essentially the pieces which anchor the rear suspension to the body. These are very susceptible to rust and can be terminal if left untreated. Repairs to this area involve unpleasant and sometimes complex welding.

Jaguars have a reputation for overheating. The XJ coolant system runs at high pressure 15 psi and a leak anywhere in the system can cause serious problems, such as a warped head. A good XJ6 should run at 88 degrees Celsius. If the temperature gauge reads any higher than 95C once the car is warmed up, you will have problems. See the coolant FAQ for more information on this. When the cam followers aka tappet guides become worn they can pop out, destroying your engine.

The usual symptom is loud ticking or clicking coming from the under the cam covers when the engine is idling. The exhaust side is the most prone to wear. Jaguar has a retrofit kit which holds the cam followers in place. This work was done on many cars. You should ask if a 'Stakedown Kit' has been installed over the cam followers. I consider myself to be an expert.

In the early days of Jaguar XK to XK the fix for this problem loose tappet guides was a grub screw, this did solve the problem. The modern fix is the tappet retainer plates, it is a quality professional fix that was recommended by Jaguar Cars. I have seen Jaguars with the tappet sleeve completely broken up.

We have used this tappet retaining kit on all loose tappet sleeve for many years without a problem. I would put a tappet retainer kit in any Jaguar I owned up to a XJ6, whether there was a click or not.

A worn timing chain or maladjusted cam tensioner will make a clicking sound in the front cam covers. Loose timing chains are easy to fix, worn out chains are not. The timing chains themselves are cheap, but they require a lot of expensive shop time to get to.

Front main crank seal: The XJ6 main seal design is awful. Expect to replace it every 40K miles no matter what. Every British engine I have ever worked on and most of those I've seen leak here at least a little. It's a design feature It's also a pain to swap out - but not fatal. Paint on most XJ's thru was terrible. Improved paint application was brought on-line in June of The paint on XJ's built before this time is rather poor, suffering from cracking, bad clearcoat and general deterioration.

There is a jungle of fuel lines in the floor of the trunk servicing the twin gas tanks. There are also some vapor recovery cans back there too. When the hoses get old and cracked or the vapor canisters are saturated, you can get gas smells. A devious way to get the price down on an XJ you are buying is to overfill the gas tank, flooding the recovery system and producing overpowering gasoline odors. The problem is, you have to get rid of the odors later One, the main seal design is awful.

Two, when the cam followers become worn, they can pop out. This work was done on my car. Some of the gadgets don't work quite right on my car. No big deal; I will get around to them when I have time.

Many people do not understand the nature of life with a Jaguar. While not onerous, these sedans require a little bit more maintenance than, say, the typical Toyota Corolla. In addition, there are several service procedures unique to the XJ that even well-intentioned owners may miss.

More often, though, the owners neglect them out of ignorance, and a simple problem becomes worse. Make sure it has complete maintenance records, and that the facility performing them was trustworthy.

If this is not an option, you must have the car checked out by a Jaguar specialist familiar with the type. Sit down with the owner and the owner's manual, if it has one, and go through the "recommended service" items and inquire if these things were done, then verify with the specialist. On the discussion list, the previous owner is often thought to be the biggest problem with these cars. These are some other common, yet, less serious, problem areas reported by XJ owners on the jag-lovers e-mail list: Jaguar sedans are very heavy.

While this affords for good accident protection, gas mileage suffers proportionally. Expect to see mpg from these cars, and less if you have a V Leaks in the XJ steering racks are common.

They are the first thing I fixed on my car. I did it in the driveway with no special tools.

575HP LS3 Swapped Jaguar XJ8L - One Take

Took about 4 hours. There are now polyurethane bushings on the market - current reports indicate much better and longer lasting results than with the stock ones referenced above.

If it leaks from the threads, tighten it some or use some Teflon thread tape on it. If it leaks from the body, replace it. No big deal on an XJ6, but who knows on a 12? This is important to check. Believe it or not, this can put you on the side of the road on a hot day. This has happened to me personally and to other XJ6 owners that I've talked to. The most common explanation urban legend to follow! Some have reported success for hose 'porosity' using system sealers which are available.

If they're evenly worn, and there is plenty of pad, this is something to worry about later. Rear brake renewal on XJ is a expensive job due to the excessive time required to do the job - the rear subframe must come out to replace the rotors. The Borg Warner Transmissions are relatively clunky, susceptible to heat and when they wear out, they are very worn out.

Watch out for slow or nonexistent gear changes, strange noises, like whining, or leaks. Easy to fix on a 6, probably a pain on an Parts are cheap for this though, and if you use a proper sealer blue RTV seems to be one of the sealants of choice, the copper stuff is good tooit should remain leak free for quite a while. The gaskets all by themselves won't seal well for long.

This was an easy fix on my car after a painful diagnosis. There is a disengagement switch on the brake pedal mount next to the brake light switch. I fixed it, and it repeated after about a month. A second, more careful fix seems to have remedied the problem. There is also a bellows that seems to like to come unsealed. Resealing is the fix.

Dead XJ12 ignition module: Heat tends to kill the ignition amplifier modules on V12's and, to a lesser degree, on the 6's. A common modification is to move the module to a cooler locations in the engine compartment. Trip Computer on the fritz: If you have an electronics background, these look simple inside.

If you have techno-phobia, they're scary. Expensive to replace, but not really a necessary item in any case. I have found the mileage reports to be so depressing that I just use mine as a clock. The transducers in the speedometers are prone to failure. The clever DIYer can fix these. Just press and turn. Thus be careful of those low mileage cars which were only driven to church on Sunday.

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I often suspect mine was tampered with in that the speedometer face has lots of fine scratches which are on no other gauges. There are many electrical switches in the XJ6.

Make sure the gas-tank switch the fuel gauge will show the changeover and the rear heater grid switch works properly. Inoperable window switches are often fixable with a good cleaning. A while back, on the brit-cars list, Scott Fisher 1 spoke of 'a comfortable level of wrong'. There will always be something less than perfect about any car, especially one as complex as the Jaguar XJ series.

A Toyota corolla is child's play by comparison. Me, I like the way the car is put together, the way it looks, the way it drives, and the way it feels. I can put up with a bit of "wrong". The steering rack is held in with wimpy foam rubber bushings; sliding in a couple of washers to limit movement transforms steering response. FI cars come from the factory set too lean and with too slow response on the air flow sensor. Breaking off the potting compound to get in and make these adjustments is rewarded with times decreased by a second and a half, and no problem passing emissions either.

XJ6's are famous for cooking their transmissions. This is due to inadequate cooling of AT fluid in the radiator; an aftermarket transmission cooler should be installed. Every 6 cylinder Jag engine needs tappet guide hold-down plates installed at 40k miles.

Any car without these will make horrible knocking sounds even at idle. Installation is an easy two-hour process. All XJ6 catalytic convertors clog at k miles. Replace or ream it out, or you will lose the head gasket at k miles. As with any used car, there is no foolproof method for determining what the correct price of a used XJ should be. One metric is to see what similar cars are selling for in your local paper. An upper bound for the price can be usually be determined by looking at the prices being asked in the US publication "Hemmings Motor News".

Vehicles advertised here tend to be in excellent shape and priced accordingly. XJ6's at this price level usually are high mileage cars which have been driving hard and may require a lot of work make right. Anything below this price level is likely to be a basket-case.

Beware of the PO Previous Owner. Don't take anything for granted - look at the brakes and rotors with your own eyeballs, drive the car while ignoring how nice it looks and feels and possibly smells - pay attention to the lumpy idle or lack of power at high speeds. Ask who's maintained it, call the service dept. They should read to you the service history. The recent threads about tires - important. Cheap-o tires are indicative of a cheap-o PO. I always overkill on tires. Look for those dealer service records.

Again, penny wise and pound foolish. The Jaguar "XK" engine design is one of the most successful designs in British motorsport. Originally designed as a racing engine in the late forties, the XJ engine is a double overhead cam straight 6 which was available first in the XK The engine came in a number of different sizes 2. Compression ratios ranged from about 7 to 9 depending upon the year and market. It was available with twin Stromberg 's, twin SU's of similar size, three 2 inch SU's and, finally, with the Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection system.

XJ12's, equipped with the Jaguar 5. The XJ12 is not for the faint of heart. While the Jaguar V12 engine is considered grossly overcomplicated and maintenance intensive, they are truly awesome if you have a big enough wallet to support them. Improved, high efficiency HE May combustion chambers for the V12 engine were introduced in mid This is a car that needs to be looked after constantly. The frame of mind one should have is to treat this car as a collectible, to be driven once in a while or on weekends.

Road and Track did a survey at that time, and found the XJ12 to have 21 problem areas. At the same time, this car also has immense appeal; it has a beautiful body, beautiful interior, and even a beautiful engine. Usually there are multiple problems all related to heat. Many of these had dropped exhaust valve seats, due to heat, causing more damage than just a bent head; broken pistons, two broke cylinders liners, several had heads bent beyond the point of salvage.

New heads from Jag are approx. Of course he was on his third transmission. While a case can be made for transplanting a non-Jaguar engine into a Jaguar, the end result is something which is not considered a Jaguar.

Jaguar AJ-V8 engine

Accordingly, this subject will not be discussed here. The design is Bosch, the patents Bosch. The parts are either made by Bosch, or by Lucas under license. Most, if not all, parts are Bosch made on the XJ6. The system is known as the Bosch L-Jetronic system. If a local mechanic can not work on it, he had best turn in his vise-grips. Everything from BMW's to Yugo's. Fiat, Truimph, and Ford.

The is no mysterious black magic in servicing and repairing that injection system. An XJ6 fitted with a manual transmission is a rare find, most XJ6's were built with 3 speed Borg-Warner automatic transmissions. Ina transition was made to the upgraded BW66 model.